Dog meat Sellers at Kugiya |
Kugiya is the Hausa translation
of the name of a hoisting tool, the hook. How did the word, “hook,” come to be
used to refer to a rendezvous of fun-seekers?
A conglomeration of old, dirty
shacks subsist opposite the Central Store of the old, defunct Amalgamated Tin
Mines of Nigeria (ATMN) and some two hundred and fifty meters south of the
Bukuru Railway station. Of course, ATMN was the European mining company that
engaged the earth of Plateau State for, perhaps, close to a century, ending in
the 1980s.
We have been told that Europe
built the oldest internet, better known as the railway, to satisfy its economic
cravings. Thus the railway that inter-links the different locations of Nigeria
has, at this very point, a diversion into ATMN’s Central Store in the town of
Bukuru. The aim of the diversion was to bring the heavy equipments and
machinery vital for the operations of the company into its Central Store. Hence
it became imperative to have a hoisting mechanism at the very point. It
explains why there is an old steel mast supporting a pulley system at the end
of which hangs an awesome steel hook.
The very hook, for decades,
lifted and lowered tons of heavy components of earth-moving machines into
Central Store from Europe and thousands of tons of tin and columbite that went
in the opposite direction. This huge steel ware that aided the European
economic interest became a token with which the shanty, across the railway came
to be known.
As they say, “old habits die hard.”
In the face of the strong presence of modernity, the people have been able to
hold on to native lifestyles in one way or the other. The drinking of local
native African liquor named burkutu
is one habit that has defied modernity through the ages. Kugiya is one of the
many fountains of burkutu across the
whole of Plateau state, home of a spectrum of cultures and a microcosm of
Nigeria. Without the fear of contradiction, one can say that Kugiya remains a
paradox of the most famous and notorious burkutu
joints in Nigeria, not just Plateau State.
What makes Kugiya famous? It is a
summit of fun. Happiness is the most important fuel that drives life. Without
it, life may cease to have meaning, grinding to a halt or people may cease to
live and just exist. Fun can sometimes be difficult to find though; it can be
expensive. Kugiya however, offers the opportunity for the poor of the poor to
find happiness. Considering that the poor and weak are in the majority, this
underscores the justification for the survival of Kugiya.
The things that make Kugiya
notorious are huge and skewed disproportionately against its benefits. It hosts
what one may refer to as an extremism of the burden of groveling conditions for
humans. The drink, dog meat and pork are not the problem but the conditions in
which they come, get prepared and served. The dogs are often what Jamaicans
will call “maga dogs:” diseased, famished and unattractive. Often, the pigs
slaughtered there are the worst, the unconfined ones that breed around dirty
gutters and putrefying human remains. Since there are hardly any toilet facilities
in Kugiya, the unusual gallons of urine that should be expected from people on
a drinking extravaganza have to be “channeled” in the poor drainages that work
to inhibit flow rather than aid it. The result is the foulest stench in the air
of Kugiya all year round with occasional relief at times of heavy down-poor. I leave the picture of solid human waste
management to your imagination. Kugiya is also home to lunatics and destitute
who share the afternoons and evenings with the sane. There are also hoodlums
and junkies who find the place most convenient.
These are the fundamental issues
that have come to accentuate the squalor and undesirability of the locality. In
my travels, there is only one place that came close to Kugiya: Artillery in
Bori Camp, Port Harcourt.
Against all these challenges,
these citizens find the place the most attractive of all places. This is due to
their mindset, shaped by the simplicity of where they have been, what they have
seen and what they have heard.
People can be schooled in the
classroom but also by what they see, day in day out. If the hosts and their
guests in Kugiya are head-over-heals in love with the place as a result of
modesty in pride, little or lack of education, then they can be educated by
coercion to live constantly in decency and get accustomed to it; it is in their
own interest and the interest of society. Good human behavior comes through
compulsion by laws. Once they get used to decency, they will never settle for
anything less. Only the powerful machinery of government can bring this
fundamental change in state of the mind.
On the 19th of August, the Plateau
State Governor, Jonah Jang, demonstrated a remarkable show of meekness by
leading his glamorous convoy into the slum of Kugiya. It was an event that put
the contrasting extremes of human dignity shoulder to shoulder: glamour on one
hand and drabness on the other. The governor stood in the center of a crowd of
his own men and excited subjects. His eyes carefully went round until he
completed a circle of inspection after which he announced that he will set up a
committee to evaluate the buildings, that the owners will then be compensated,
that bulldozers will then set out, that Kugiya will then become history…
forever. The implication is that the destitute, urchins, vermin and the
businesses in Kugiya will go.
I went to Kugiya a day after the
biggest proclamation regarding its fate was made to weigh their feelings.
Comrade Emmanuel George is the Chairman of Kugiya Market. He only talked about
how happy the people were to receive the first citizen of the state as he could
not get close enough to hear what the governor had to say. Security men kept
them away from the Governor by a reasonable distance. Only press men, who
swarmed the governor, heard him. Those who care about news heard it the next
day.
Governor Jonah Jang refers to the
last two years of his administration in Plateau State as “injury time” during
which contractors must throttle softly as he wouldn’t want to leave any project
without completion. The implication is that, come what may, the place where
Kugiya currently stands will be replaced by something more glamorous, an
extension of city renewal, an indication that things are changing.